Baz Luhrmann’s “The Great Gatsby” (2013) is based on F. Scott Fitzgerald’s novel of the same name (1925).

Set in 1922 when the “roaring twenties” were in full swing, it captures the flappers and the parties, during America’s prosperous prohibition years before the stock market crash of 1929.

It was the clash of the newly rich with old money manifested in the movie’s symbolic geography itself: East Egg represents the established aristocracy (Tom Buchannan), West Egg the self-made rich (Gatsby).

The movie sees Nick Carraway (narrator), a Midwesterner now living on Long Island, developing a fascination for the mysterious past and lavish lifestyle of his neighbour, Jay Gatsby. He is drawn into Gatsby's circle, becoming a witness to Gatsby's obsession with his former love, the now-married Daisy Buchannan (Nick’s cousin).

On the surface, The Great Gatsby is a story of the incomplete love between a man and a woman. The main theme of the movie, however, encompasses a much larger, less romantic scope. It is a highly symbolic journey into the 1920s America as a whole, in particular the disintegration of the American dream which earlier was purely the pursuit of happiness into materialism. Corruption of the times is represented by characters like Meyer Wolfshiem and Gatsby, symbolizing the rise of organized crime.

 

The costumes of the movie are designed by Catherine Martin (Oscar winning producer, costume designer) with Muiccia Prada (head of Prada and Mui Mui). Collaborations like Brooke brothers (men’s suits) and Tiffany & Co. (jewellery) add authenticity to the looks.

The novel is set over a few months in 1922 but the wardrobe in the 2013 cinema remake of the story draws inspiration from the glamour and decadence of the entire decade. The result is an ensemble of every beautiful 20s fashion item one can conceptualize: fur stoles, pave diamonds, lace, peacock feathers and barrettes, low backs, drop waist loose fitting dresses. And for men, suspenders, pinky rings, pocket squares, shawl-collared cardigans, two-tone shoes and three-piece suits.

The pink suit—pinstriped paired with a burgundy tie and gold collar bar­ as described in the novel —reveals Gatsby's true beginnings, his newly acquired fortunes and his extravagant lifestyle. Gatsby, played by Leonardo DiCaprio, is a dandy who has based his style on English royalty.

In complete contrast to Gatsby, Buchannan and Nick adhere to the kind of sartorial understatement that comes with being born in riches. Adorning fitted, navy and black, double-breasted vest and suit coats.

Daisy Buchannan, played by Carey Mulligan, is ravishing in her lavender, lace dropped waist dress (while pondering over the state of women in the world), or her chandelier dress (hand beaded by miuccia Prada) with peacock feather headgear when she attends one of Gatsby’s parties. Her look is ethereal, free spirited and very 1920’s.

Jordan Baker and Myrtle Wilson don’t exactly represent the 20’s appropriately, though they get the point across in their sense of clothing.

Jordan sports a progressive 30’s alternating with 50’s look consisting of a backless, floor-length evening gowns, and pants. Her dressing is a badge of her profession as an athlete and sensibilities.

Myrtle, Tom’s mistress, is bold, sexy and overreaching in her dressing. Her plunging necklines and behaviour is too forward for the times portrayed.

 

The movie is shot lavishly, each frame shouts glamour. As a cinema goer, you are intrigued by the depth of each character, the movie grips you till the very end, overlooking a few loose ends like, the over the top portray of intimate or extremely emotional scenes.

The movie is never boring; it’s intelligent and is shot with flair.

Overall, even though the fashion in the movie is more exaggerated and glamourized for the 1920’s and slightly twitched to please the 21st century audience, there is clarity in the vision and provides a vivid imagery of the times.

Upbeat music by artists like Jay-Z and Lana Del Ray , a 3-D release and a sexier , grittier and much darker narrative gives a refreshing twist to this classic. Even though the historic accuracy may not be maintained, the movie explains the social and cultural meaning of clothing in the 1920’s aptly.